Looks like England is going down the tubes...
We read about London electing an Islamic Mayor...
Well it gets worse:
http://pamelageller.com/2016/05/pame...to-allah.html/
It appears the election was rigged... for some reason a 'technical glitch' did not allow Jewish voters to vote... curious that...
It is just a matter of time... before the human rights the Magna Carta guaranteed to Englandeers... becomes a figment of memory in history.
Folks... this CAN happen in the USA...
The ONLY thing that will stop it...
Is getting involved in politics and being SURE it is stopped.
Hey Chase... you DO KNOW that Trump is the ONLY POTUS candidate that will not welcome this anti-Christian mess to the USA... :) You lady Hillary will sell out the country to this mess in a minute!
Well it gets worse:
http://pamelageller.com/2016/05/pame...to-allah.html/
It appears the election was rigged... for some reason a 'technical glitch' did not allow Jewish voters to vote... curious that...
It is just a matter of time... before the human rights the Magna Carta guaranteed to Englandeers... becomes a figment of memory in history.
Folks... this CAN happen in the USA...
The ONLY thing that will stop it...
Is getting involved in politics and being SURE it is stopped.
Hey Chase... you DO KNOW that Trump is the ONLY POTUS candidate that will not welcome this anti-Christian mess to the USA... :) You lady Hillary will sell out the country to this mess in a minute!
Huwebes, Mayo 26, 2016
Toronto ban on hookah lounges challenged in court
A lawyer for the owners of four hookah lounges says the city had no power to ban the businesses.
Sealing a PVC joint
I have a 1" sprinkler system that has a difficult connection. I estimate that something like 1/8 to 1/4 inch of pipe is inside a 45 elbow joint. I have loaded it with pvc glue, but I would like to know if there is any kind of sealer or glue that could be placed at the intersection of the pipe and the elbow to give added strength. The system operates at about 100 psi and this joint is on the input side, thus under pressure all the time. Appreciate any advice.
No insulation,attic,or vent-Is my Window AC [6500 BTU] adequate for 160sq ft?
Hi!
I rent a small house [ca 750sq ft] & want to cool a 160sq ft Living Room,which I use for guitar lessons,so there is 1 or 2 other people present, about 3 hrs in a day, [betweeen 2p to 10p]
There is no insulation on the ceiling or roof,no attic, & no exhaust vent [& no Casablanca fan].
This Living Room is separated from the Kitchen by a curtain which extends all the way to the ceiling. The ceiling is high & slanted [average height of 9.75ft.]
My Window AC is a Frigidaire [LRA074AT7], 6,500 BTU, bought Oct,2011, EER : 10.7, [nominally for 250 sq ft application],$165.
Last summer it was really hot here in Pasadena,CA & this Frigidaire AC didn't seem to be at all adequate,but that may be because I didn't didn't realize that I needed run it long enough or early enough.
MY QUESTION: What size of AC do I need?
Or do I just need to run my current one long enough & early enough?
Is 1200-15000 BTU's too large to remove humidity properly?
I rent a small house [ca 750sq ft] & want to cool a 160sq ft Living Room,which I use for guitar lessons,so there is 1 or 2 other people present, about 3 hrs in a day, [betweeen 2p to 10p]
There is no insulation on the ceiling or roof,no attic, & no exhaust vent [& no Casablanca fan].
This Living Room is separated from the Kitchen by a curtain which extends all the way to the ceiling. The ceiling is high & slanted [average height of 9.75ft.]
My Window AC is a Frigidaire [LRA074AT7], 6,500 BTU, bought Oct,2011, EER : 10.7, [nominally for 250 sq ft application],$165.
Last summer it was really hot here in Pasadena,CA & this Frigidaire AC didn't seem to be at all adequate,but that may be because I didn't didn't realize that I needed run it long enough or early enough.
MY QUESTION: What size of AC do I need?
Or do I just need to run my current one long enough & early enough?
Is 1200-15000 BTU's too large to remove humidity properly?
Lunes, Mayo 23, 2016
Open drive/belt driven compressor
Looking for a 1hp compressor or close to that hp. Hoping to build a condensing unit with belt driven compressor. Need help locating one, preferably used, wanting to run 404a, small walk in cooler. Just a hobby project, have been commercial for 5 years and wanted to tinker with this.
Excavating a dirt crawlspace -- success!!
Hi, I'm new to this site. Just wanted to post about my recent experience with excavating a dirt crawlspace (about 40" clear) into a regular basement, about 900 s.f., and adding a bulkhead/Bilco door.
It wasn't a big deal and wasn't very expensive. The house is about 150 years old and just has a granite foundation. The central supports for the floor were pretty bug-eaten, although thankfully the floor above wasn't soft. (Dirt crawlspaces are, of course, terrible as far as pests and overall dampness.)
Our local building code allows you to excavate to place your finish floor no lower than the base of the foundation walls. In our case, that created a limit of 7' clear -- which is fine because at least you can stand up!!
First, they punched a hole in the foundation wall. Doing so under a narrow gable end meant very little weight coming down on the wall in that area. First it was a bit of shovel work, then they they were able to get a Bobcat in. They excavated down about 8', leaving the requisite 45 degree slopes up to the foundation walls. Put down perimeter corrugated drains and gravel, running back to a new airtight sump connected into the sewer. Put down new 1x2' center footings, and added strong lally columns to hold up the floor. Then a vapor barrier of dimple mat. Then a concrete slab was poured to just above the base of the perimeter foundation wall.
We were a little worried about the high water table. But it never appeared. So that was good.
Next, added an angle iron to the top of the opening, and finished it off, added a precast bulkhead, sealed it up against the house, put a Bilco door on there, and we were done.
Only $11k plus the cost of materials which was about $3k. So that wasn't too bad and it's an infinitely nicer setup, that can in fact be used as a real basement (and, thankfully, a bone dry one).
Anyhow I just wanted to post this because some people wrote in some other posts that this type of work had proven costly and/or troublesome. If you can just find an area of your foundation wall to punch through that's not bearing any significant load, I think you will find it's a pretty straightforward process. Just make everything utterly bombproof and I really don't think you'll regret it. Awfully nice to have that extra space.
It wasn't a big deal and wasn't very expensive. The house is about 150 years old and just has a granite foundation. The central supports for the floor were pretty bug-eaten, although thankfully the floor above wasn't soft. (Dirt crawlspaces are, of course, terrible as far as pests and overall dampness.)
Our local building code allows you to excavate to place your finish floor no lower than the base of the foundation walls. In our case, that created a limit of 7' clear -- which is fine because at least you can stand up!!
First, they punched a hole in the foundation wall. Doing so under a narrow gable end meant very little weight coming down on the wall in that area. First it was a bit of shovel work, then they they were able to get a Bobcat in. They excavated down about 8', leaving the requisite 45 degree slopes up to the foundation walls. Put down perimeter corrugated drains and gravel, running back to a new airtight sump connected into the sewer. Put down new 1x2' center footings, and added strong lally columns to hold up the floor. Then a vapor barrier of dimple mat. Then a concrete slab was poured to just above the base of the perimeter foundation wall.
We were a little worried about the high water table. But it never appeared. So that was good.
Next, added an angle iron to the top of the opening, and finished it off, added a precast bulkhead, sealed it up against the house, put a Bilco door on there, and we were done.
Only $11k plus the cost of materials which was about $3k. So that wasn't too bad and it's an infinitely nicer setup, that can in fact be used as a real basement (and, thankfully, a bone dry one).
Anyhow I just wanted to post this because some people wrote in some other posts that this type of work had proven costly and/or troublesome. If you can just find an area of your foundation wall to punch through that's not bearing any significant load, I think you will find it's a pretty straightforward process. Just make everything utterly bombproof and I really don't think you'll regret it. Awfully nice to have that extra space.
drip staining
On some houses rain flows off the main roof and then hits a lower roof before running off to the ground. Where it hits the lower roof it can splash back slightly and get the siding wet where it meets the lower roof. If its wood siding it can stain over the years and you cant wash off that stain if its gotten in the wood.
If you replace the siding with cement siding will water be able to stain that also??? or do people use additional coats of paint on those bottom layers so water cant get in the cement siding..
If you replace the siding with cement siding will water be able to stain that also??? or do people use additional coats of paint on those bottom layers so water cant get in the cement siding..
Linggo, Mayo 22, 2016
Supply grill selection based on FPM
I read that a target range for FPM should be around 600 to 800. Hart and Cooley recommends 700 FPM. The companies I used to work for just based it on the approximate cfm. For example, 110 cfm would be 10x6, 160 cfm would be 12x6, and 200 cfm would be 14x8 grills.
I was looking at some H&C data charts. The data seems to show that 110cfm would warrant an 8x4 grill. It would have a throw of 12 feet, however. Should the throw just be at least 5 ft? It seems like there would be excessive noise. I'm looking at the A618 side wall grills.
What A618 grills should be used for:
110 CFM
400 CFM
I don't see data for the 12x12 and 14x14 grill. Which one would be recommended for 400 cfm?
http://www.hartandcooley.com/files/a...g_ed8_0914.pdf
I was looking at some H&C data charts. The data seems to show that 110cfm would warrant an 8x4 grill. It would have a throw of 12 feet, however. Should the throw just be at least 5 ft? It seems like there would be excessive noise. I'm looking at the A618 side wall grills.
What A618 grills should be used for:
110 CFM
400 CFM
I don't see data for the 12x12 and 14x14 grill. Which one would be recommended for 400 cfm?
http://www.hartandcooley.com/files/a...g_ed8_0914.pdf
Problems after replacing bulbs with LEDs
I have a few light fixtures which have experienced different issues after switching from incandescent (halogen) to LED bulbs.
First, I have two of these on our front porch. They are both light and motion sensitive. I have them set to they come on (dim) for 6 hours after dusk, and turn bright when motion is sensed. After the 6 hours, they turn off, but will still come on to full bright with motion.
Anyway, they've worked fine for years. Then I replaced the halogens with these LEDs. Now both the light sensing and motion sensing functions are inoperative. They're basically just "dumb" lights now: turn on and off with the switch, nothing else. Why?
The web page says you can use LEDs, as long as they are dimmable, and they are. Yet it seems like somehow the LEDs have killed both of the sensing functions. And to top it off, I put halogens back and and the light / motion sensing is still dead. It's like the LEDs permanently killed them! Does this make any sense?
Separately, I have an interior light fixture which holds 3 incandescent bulbs. I switched them to 3 LEDs and the worked fine. However, the fixture is on a dimmer, and I had forgotten to buy dimmable LEDs. So I went out and bought dimmable LEDs and swapped them out. Now, 1 of the 3 sockets won't work with the dimmable LED! It works with the incandescent/halogen, works with the non-dimmable LED, but won't work with the dimmable LED! And the other 2 sockets work fine with any of the bulbs. Any ideas on this one?
Thanks!
First, I have two of these on our front porch. They are both light and motion sensitive. I have them set to they come on (dim) for 6 hours after dusk, and turn bright when motion is sensed. After the 6 hours, they turn off, but will still come on to full bright with motion.
Anyway, they've worked fine for years. Then I replaced the halogens with these LEDs. Now both the light sensing and motion sensing functions are inoperative. They're basically just "dumb" lights now: turn on and off with the switch, nothing else. Why?
The web page says you can use LEDs, as long as they are dimmable, and they are. Yet it seems like somehow the LEDs have killed both of the sensing functions. And to top it off, I put halogens back and and the light / motion sensing is still dead. It's like the LEDs permanently killed them! Does this make any sense?
Separately, I have an interior light fixture which holds 3 incandescent bulbs. I switched them to 3 LEDs and the worked fine. However, the fixture is on a dimmer, and I had forgotten to buy dimmable LEDs. So I went out and bought dimmable LEDs and swapped them out. Now, 1 of the 3 sockets won't work with the dimmable LED! It works with the incandescent/halogen, works with the non-dimmable LED, but won't work with the dimmable LED! And the other 2 sockets work fine with any of the bulbs. Any ideas on this one?
Thanks!
Prepping retaining wall for laying brick?
Approx. 2 1/2 years ago built a 12"H X 50'L retaining wall using 'split face' cinder block, I used rebar to support the retaining wall then filled with cement and leveled. I now want to install brick on top of the wall but after these few years not sure how to prep the surface? I would also appreciated comments/suggestions on the type of mortar I should use?
Thank you! Dave
Thank you! Dave
whats the trick to getting these quick connect impact chucks? tools stick
ughh i am embarrassed to say i have two Milwaukee and now one dewalt quick chuck i use in my small impact type compact drills so i can use regular bits in it.. however once i put the first bits in and use it i cannot for the life of me get the chuck to release bits! i thought they were defective but starting to think im defective..
is there a trick to it?
the dewalt feels like if you lift on the housing it is springy but if you turn with way the dang chuck will either spin or lock but wont release!! these are expensive and tired of buying them..
help:gah:
the dewalt
is there a trick to it?
the dewalt feels like if you lift on the housing it is springy but if you turn with way the dang chuck will either spin or lock but wont release!! these are expensive and tired of buying them..
help:gah:
the dewalt
Sabado, Mayo 21, 2016
Ran out of wireless zones! Vista 20P
Okay, another set of questions with my Vista 20P:
The panel specs say the unit will handle 40 wireless zones, but I guess if you have a 6150RF keypad, that 40 goes down to 16? I wonder because I have 13 wireless zones set up and then I tried to add a keyfob which apparently threw me into the dreaded E8 error.
If this is true, do I need to add another RF Receiver to get more zones? Are there any out there that handle more than 16?
Lastly, the previous homeowner had a Lynx Plus keypad installed. I pulled it to put in the Vista 20P I had from a previous installation. It seems the Lynx Plus handles up to 40 wireless zones as-is, is that correct? If that is the case, could the Lynx Plus be substituted as the keypad in place of the 6150RF in my Vista 20P system? Am I stupid for even swapping the units out (Lynx Plus for Vista 20P)? One thing I've noticed about the Lynx Plus is that it wont handle my AMSCO SSX-52S Siren/Strobe unit (not enough power). That is one reason I'd like to use the Vista 20P.
Please advise if you can. Thanks!
The panel specs say the unit will handle 40 wireless zones, but I guess if you have a 6150RF keypad, that 40 goes down to 16? I wonder because I have 13 wireless zones set up and then I tried to add a keyfob which apparently threw me into the dreaded E8 error.
If this is true, do I need to add another RF Receiver to get more zones? Are there any out there that handle more than 16?
Lastly, the previous homeowner had a Lynx Plus keypad installed. I pulled it to put in the Vista 20P I had from a previous installation. It seems the Lynx Plus handles up to 40 wireless zones as-is, is that correct? If that is the case, could the Lynx Plus be substituted as the keypad in place of the 6150RF in my Vista 20P system? Am I stupid for even swapping the units out (Lynx Plus for Vista 20P)? One thing I've noticed about the Lynx Plus is that it wont handle my AMSCO SSX-52S Siren/Strobe unit (not enough power). That is one reason I'd like to use the Vista 20P.
Please advise if you can. Thanks!
NTI Boiler loop issues
I installed A NTI TFT 200 boiler with a indirect Hwt last fall. the system worked well throughout the winter. Now that the warmer weather has arrived, the central heat is shut off. I got a call from my customer saying the boiler is still running and the rads are hot. So I went over check it out, found out that when there is a demand for dhw my ch heat loop is getting hot. The ch pump does not come on and i have confirmed this. So I called the NTI tech support to see if they have any solutions and even sent pics to him so he could look at my primary/secondary and dhw loops. He said everything looks fine and said there's no way that the ch loop should be getting hot.
does anybody have any ideas as to what this issue could be?????
thanks
does anybody have any ideas as to what this issue could be?????
thanks
Convert 4-way circuit to single pole?
Hi all. My wife and I bought a mid century house and the previous owners were a bit paranoid. They had 3 different switches spread out all over the house (one switch was next to the bed) to turn on all the flood lights around the exterior of the house. Ive converted those floods to led accent down lights and really want to put them on timers like I've done with many other switches / lights with our house. I noticed one switch is a bizarre looking one with only a pair or traveler wires going in and out (no common wire) and a ground. The switch next to the bed looks like a traditional 3-way with red and white traveler wires, a common and a ground. I don't care which location has the timer. The goal is to have the lights on a timer and the other 2 switches to not control anything.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Lnbuilder 3 pump trotation
Does anybody have a good routine for rotating hot water/chilled water pumps every 7 days?
There is no supervisory device. Switching will be via display/scheduler.
There is no supervisory device. Switching will be via display/scheduler.
Biyernes, Mayo 20, 2016
'The First American'...
Well, as some of you have read.... GA has signed up for free Emails from Newt Gingrich...
The guy is about as smart as they come... and has as much (or more) experience in politics as any person doing commentary.
And we have not even discussed his brilliance in history...
Anyhow...
His organization: Gingrich Productions...
Has put out a movie about George Washington.
(No, GA is not gonna suggest folks go out and buy it)
Rather...
Simply read the article attached and watch the trailer:
Article:
http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/...6eaea-51722389
Trailer (at bottom):
http://store.gingrichproductions.com...6eaea-51722389
One finds George Washington was a remarkable person (and a God fearing Christian, read his diary writings)...
We were taught to revere (respect and honor) the 'father of our country' until the progressives got ahold of education curriculum... now all they teach is he had slaves and fostered slave children.
Bet you can guess the agenda of the education curriculum change if you try... :D
The guy is about as smart as they come... and has as much (or more) experience in politics as any person doing commentary.
And we have not even discussed his brilliance in history...
Anyhow...
His organization: Gingrich Productions...
Has put out a movie about George Washington.
(No, GA is not gonna suggest folks go out and buy it)
Rather...
Simply read the article attached and watch the trailer:
Article:
http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/...6eaea-51722389
Trailer (at bottom):
http://store.gingrichproductions.com...6eaea-51722389
One finds George Washington was a remarkable person (and a God fearing Christian, read his diary writings)...
We were taught to revere (respect and honor) the 'father of our country' until the progressives got ahold of education curriculum... now all they teach is he had slaves and fostered slave children.
Bet you can guess the agenda of the education curriculum change if you try... :D
PC leader Patrick Brown meets predecessor John Tory at city hall
The former and current PC leader discussed mental health, transit and other municipal issues ahead of a photo op.
Vacuum smells like farts after using it for protein powder spill
Made the mistake of picking up half a container's worth of protein powder that my son spilled on the floor with our indoor carpet vacuum cleaner (and by "my son," I mean me). Now the vacuum smells awful when its turned on. I was thinking of sucking up a can of ajax or some other type of powder cleaner and let it sit in the guts of the vacuum for a couple of days. Is that a terrible idea? Anyone have another suggestion?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
"Crappy" DIY
Stopped in at a convenience store and saw this. Just from the shape of the shopping area I know the return goes back into the storage/working area. And yes, they do prepare cooked items back there. I forgot to look up to see if they had a pass through in the drop ceiling of the bathroom.
More landlords warned to stop renting space to marijuana operations
City officials and police have now sent 64 warning letters to landlords telling them to shutter pot storefronts
Huwebes, Mayo 19, 2016
Digital or analog for my first set of gauges?
I've been an apprentice service tech for about a month now, and I originally didn't think I was going to need a pair of gauges since I figured I was always going to be with a journeyman who had a pair. But recently Ive been doing some annual maintenance for different commercial companies, and have been doing those by myself, and I don't want to keep borrowing gauges from coworkers.
Most the people at my shop have analog gauges, but the consensuses here definitely seems to be that digital is the way to. I've also heard people say that you shouldn't go digital for your first pair. Honestly though I'd rather "buy once cry once" and shell out the extra money for digital gauges since I know thats what I really want.
any thoughts? and maybe some "do's and dont's" regarding digital gauges or even gauges in general would be appreciated. I know not to pull a vacuum through my gauges but anything I could do to prolong the life of them would be appreciated.
thanks!
Most the people at my shop have analog gauges, but the consensuses here definitely seems to be that digital is the way to. I've also heard people say that you shouldn't go digital for your first pair. Honestly though I'd rather "buy once cry once" and shell out the extra money for digital gauges since I know thats what I really want.
any thoughts? and maybe some "do's and dont's" regarding digital gauges or even gauges in general would be appreciated. I know not to pull a vacuum through my gauges but anything I could do to prolong the life of them would be appreciated.
thanks!
What is the meaning of "Siren Tracking"?
In the back of the manual, where it lists response codes for configuring the outputs, there is a column "Siren Tracking"... I searched the manual but couldn't find a real description of what that means, any ideas? I want to configure the outputs as typical interior and exterior siren outputs, so am curious if I need it or not (or under what circumstances I might want it).
Landlord licensing passes first major hurdle at city hall
A move by tenant advocates to ensure better building standards and greater punishment for landlords who don't comply is now in council's hands
York Res'l A/C
I am working on a York Res'l A/C Condensing Unit. It is model: AC024X1322B. It is about 10 yrs old. Over the winter, mice got into the control panel area and made a mess. One of the things they chewed on was the Wiring Diagram. It is 90% gone. Would anyone have a Diagram for this series of Condensing Unit (230V-1PH)..??
Miyerkules, Mayo 18, 2016
power lost in transmission lines
Hi
I've a simple question about the law formula of power lost in transmission lines
How to distinguish between the law formula of the lost power in lines and the power input of the transformers as they've the same law P= I x V?
I've a simple question about the law formula of power lost in transmission lines
How to distinguish between the law formula of the lost power in lines and the power input of the transformers as they've the same law P= I x V?
Honeywell WiFi Thermostat
Hi,
Just bought the Honeywell Wi-Fi thermostat and need a little assistance on connecting my Trane Split Systems thermostat to Honeywell WI-FI RTH9580. Attached are pictures of my current Trane Wiring and the Honeywell wiring diagram. I do not have a "C" wire and White wire is connected across two screws.
Thanks in advance!
Just bought the Honeywell Wi-Fi thermostat and need a little assistance on connecting my Trane Split Systems thermostat to Honeywell WI-FI RTH9580. Attached are pictures of my current Trane Wiring and the Honeywell wiring diagram. I do not have a "C" wire and White wire is connected across two screws.
Thanks in advance!
Province should share financial burden to build affordable housing now, advocates say
While Toronto waits for provincial rules to force developers to build affordable housing, tens of thousands of applications are already in progress
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